Brown the Meat:

Dry the meat with paper towels, lay it on a tray, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. In a Dutch oven or a heavy-bottomed non-reactive pot, warm the olive oil over high heat until it shimmers. Place the meat in a single layer (cook in batches if needed to avoid crowding) and brown, flipping, until all sides are lightly browned, roughly 1-2 minutes per side. Using a slotted spoon, move the browned pieces to a large bowl; cover and set aside.

Cook Pearl Onions:

Turn the heat down to medium. Add the pearl onions (frozen, no need to thaw) to the pot; toss to coat with oil, adding a little more if necessary. Cook until they soften but do not caramelize, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for an additional 1 minute.

Add Spices and Meat:

Mix in the tomato paste, bay leaves, cinnamon stick, ground cloves, and allspice berries using a wooden spoon. Cook for 1 minute until the paste caramelizes. Return the meat and any collected juices to the pot; stir to evenly coat with the spices.

Deglaze with Wine:

Add the red wine and Cognac or brandy, scraping the pot's bottom with a wooden spoon to lift the fond. Let it simmer for 5 minutes to cook off the alcohol.

Simmer Until Tender:

Add the canned tomatoes and enough warm water to just cover the meat. Lower the heat to medium-low for a gentle simmer; put the lid on. Cook until the meat is fork-tender and the sauce has thickened slightly, about 1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the size of the meat pieces. Halfway through, stir and check the liquid level; add more hot water if needed.

Adjust Seasoning and Serve:

Once the meat is tender, taste and adjust seasoning. Remove the bay leaves, cinnamon stick, and allspice berries. Let it rest uncovered for 15 minutes. Serve hot over orzo, rice, mashed potatoes, or Greek French fries.